While your instinct might be to pluck away gray brow hairs, learning how to properly take care of them can help keep their shape and color in check. Just like hair, brow pigment can fade and get coarser. If you remove these strands with a dermaplaner or tweezers, the follicle will grow back the same color as before, and frequent pulling can weaken the area. And, if you try to dye them yourself, you may not be able to cover them completely or darken them too much.

So what to do? Here, we spoke with a brow expert to break down why graying happens in brows and how to address it without causing further damage. Whether you’re looking to embrace your grays or temporarily conceal them, we’re sharing exactly how you can do both using makeup, below.

Why do gray hairs appear in the eyebrows?

“Actually, it’s the same as your head: the hair stops producing the pigment that gives it color. What I have found is that gray eyebrows tend to appear more irregularly. Sometimes a client has one or two gray hairs in their eyebrows and hardly any gray in their hair, or the other way around. Each person has their own rhythm, and both areas do not always age in the same way,” says Sara Bonnet, eyebrow expert and founder of the center Gias.

Genetics also plays a huge role. There’s no fixed age for their appearance. Some people notice them in their 30s or 40s, while others see them earlier or much later. “Factors such as stress, hormonal changes, nutritional deficits, or simply the natural aging process can also play a role, but genes is usually a determining factor,” says the expert.

While there is no formula to prevent the appearance of gray hair, neither in the eyebrows nor in the head, we can slow down the process, according to Bonnet. “The reality is that there is no way to completely stop the natural graying process, because it is largely determined by genetics and the passage of time.” But we can make some changes, such as maintaining a balanced diet, rich in antioxidants and key micronutrients such as B vitamins, iron, zinc and copper. This helps maintain follicle health. There are also foods rich in catalase, an enzyme related to the body’s oxidation processes, that can be part of a healthy diet. “Beyond that, taking care of stress, getting plenty of rest, and maintaining healthy habits is always going to play in favor of hair and eyebrow health. And even if gray hairs do eventually appear, well-groomed, strong, and well-densified eyebrows will always look beautiful and harmonious. In the end, it’s not so much about fighting gray hairs as it is about learning how to take care of them and work on them properly,” says Bonnet.

What to do when you have gray eyebrows

First of all, you’ll want to avoid overplucking your brows. “It’s something I see very often, and it’s one of the biggest mistakes we can make. A gray hair appears, it bothers us and we remove it. The problem is, if we make that a habit, we can end up creating gaps in the brow and losing density over time. Another common mistake is to try to cover them with overly dark colors. Many times that hardens the expression and achieves just the opposite effect to what we are looking for,” says Bonnet.

The best option depends on the amount of gray hair and the result that each person wants to achieve. When there are few and they appear only occasionally, a good eyebrow gel can be more than enough. “Personally, I really like Benefit’s Gimme Brow Brow Gel because it adds color, helps integrate gray hairs with the rest of the eyebrow, and also gives a feeling of greater density without looking artificial,” he says. When there’s already a significant amount of grays, you can try a professional brow tint that pairs well with your skin tone, hair, and features. “The key is not to cover them at all costs, but to make the color look uniform, flattering, and natural,” Bonnet says.

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