Founders: Kim Gordon & Daisy von Furth
When Kim Gordon, former Sonic Youth frontwoman and bassist, created the downtown streetwear brand X-Girl in 1994 alongside Daisy von Furth, she wanted it to be the antithesis of everything: anti-establishment, anti-mainstream, and anti-commercial with a heavy emphasis on DIY, and a clear allegiance to punk, skate, and underground hip-hop.
X-Girl was the sister brand to the already established X-Large, which was founded by Eli Bonerz, Adam Silverman, and Mike D of The Beastie Boys. Gordon and von Furth set out to make clothes that erred on the side of Euro-pop and preppy. The line consisted of mini skirts, mini A-line dresses, and graphic T-shirts. Gordon had a rule against Lycra, the stretchy material that clings the body, and anything incredibly tight, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t consider the female form.
X-Girl’s aesthetic came to define a particular time in ’90s street and rave culture. In 1994, X-Girl staged its first runway show that caused a lot of ruckus. Staying true to its “anti-everything” philosophy, they decided to storm the Marc Jacobs show that was going on in New York City as a way to get free press. In 1998, it was acquired by B’s International, a Japanese company, and reintroduced itself in the states years later. Under B’s International’s ownership, X-Girl has collaborated with Reebok, Dr. Martens, Dover Street Market London, and MadeMe, but its legacy as a female founded brand is still felt today.
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