Today, Francis Ford Coppola will at last unveil Megalopolis—the legendary director’s years-in-the-making epic, in which he’s invested over $100 million of his own money—at the 2024 Cannes Film Festival. It is Coppola’s first film to premiere in competition at the festival since 1979’s Apocalypse Now, which earned him his second Palme d’Or award. All eyes will be on Megalopolis as it endeavors to find a distributor and pay off its filmmaker’s extraordinary bet on himself.

But perhaps most importantly of all, today’s premiere will give Coppola his latest opportunity to get a goddamn fit off on the French Riviera. Cannes has long been the most glamorous festival on the circuit, and as the proprietor of the Instagram account @DirectorFits, I can say with studied certainty that few directors have taken more advantage of that status than Coppola. The Godfather auteur has been attending the event for a whopping 57 years now—as a competitor, a jury president, an honored guest, and a supportive father. In that time, he’s wielded his fearless, inimitable style to superb effect, mixing up classic suits with freaky Hawaiian shirts, righteous patterns with rich textures, and mismatched socks with suave berets.

In eager anticipation of Coppola’s sure-to-be incredible ensemble at the Megalopolis premiere, I’ve taken the liberty of rounding up 10 of his greatest Cannes looks of all time. Salute, king!

Premiere of You’re a Big Boy Now, 1967

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Photo Traverso/Shutterstock

Fresh out of UCLA film school, Coppola debuted his second feature You’re a Big Boy Now at Cannes in 1967. He chose a bold, natty ensemble for the occasion, but the minute details—pants a little too short, sleeves a touch too long—point to a recent college grad who hasn’t quite dialed his style in yet.

The Conversation wins the Palme d’Or, 1974

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Gilbert TOURTE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

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