GQ Associate Commerce Editor Tyler Chin says his Gucci loafers are “super comfy from the start and have zero break-in period.” Unlike many other hard bottoms, Gucci loafers hug the feet comfortably without any painful rubbing at the heel. Fair warning: The leather sole isn’t as thick as other shoes and will need to be resoled more often. Our tip? Have a cobbler add rubber soles to the existing leather sole to increase their longevity (and grip!). The signature hardware does tend to jangle with each step, so that can also be a turnoff for people.
The Best Budget Horsebit Loafer: G.H. Bass Lincoln Bit Weejuns Loafers
Material: Leather | Sole: Leather | Construction: Blake stitch | Colors: Black, wine | Sizes: 7-13
If you’re looking to ease yourself into the category, G.H. Bass’s Bit Weejuns loafers are the perfect starter pair of loafers. Bass brought the penny loafer to the masses and became an icon of American menswear thanks to stylish Ivy leaguers sporting their loafers with chinos and blazers, so its no surprise that their version of the bit loafer is also worthy to be street styled.
Like the brand’s storied penny loafers, the Lincoln features moccasin-style construction with a handsewn toe, and full leather lining and insoles. It’s a perennial favorite at the GQ office, but if you don’t trust us, you can trust the hordes of folks who are already rocking a pair.
In our experience, Bass loafers can run a bit small. Like with dress shoes, you may have to size down from your usual sneaker size, but not as much as you might think. The leather is buffed to a smooth finish and is fairly stiff to start, so expect to do some breaking in.
The Best Lug Sole Horsebit Loafer: Blackstock & Weber Mason Horse Bit Loafers
Material: Full grain leather | Sole: Vibram | Construction: Goodyear Welt | Colors: Varies | Sizes: 4-15
Blackstock & Weber refers to its Vibram-clad bit loafers as having thrown “snow tires” on a beloved silhouette, and we couldn’t agree more. The chunky Vibram 1757 lug sole makes these flashy bit loafers capable of withstanding just about anything you may throw at them. The golden hue on the hardware is an excellent accent to the grained leather, which will only going to get better with age.
GQ writers Tyler Chin and Gerald Ortiz both own a pair of Blackstock & Weber loafers and have great things to say. The beefy silhouette and rock-solid Goodyear-welted construction instills confidence and we love that they come in so many different colorways and materials. “As diesel as these loafers are, they’re surprisingly comfortable from the get-go. I had no trouble breaking them in,” Ortiz says. The lug sole is hefty and grippy, but we’ve found that sizing can be a bit tricky so it’s worth trying them on in-person if you can.
The Step-Up Horsebit Loafer: Johnston & Murphy Baldwin Bit Loafers
Material: Leather | Sole: Rubber | Construction: Blake stitch | Colors: Black, dark brown, cognac | Sizes: 8-12
What separates shoes with good value from shoes with great value comes down to the construction, and a resolable shoe is a major plus. That’s what’s on offer from Johnston & Murphy’s Baldwin bit loafers, and why we’re dubbing them the best bang for your buck.
The Baldwins look like a handsome and straightforward pair of horsebit loafers without any awkward flourishes, but, crucially, they’re made with a Blake stitch construction (where the uppers are sewn directly to the outsoles, rather than simply being glued), which means they’re lighter and more comfortable than many Goodyear welted shoes, but still resolable.
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