Frequently asked questions
Do scalp serums really work?
It depends on your hair goals, according to the dermatologists we spoke with. Scalp serums can work, but experts recommend limiting expectations depending on your concerns. If someone is experiencing true hair loss or thinning, incorporating a scalp serum into your routine may help with creating a better environment for hair to grow, but it won’t itself be the reason new strands start sprouting from your scalp.
Scalp serums can also address irritation from product buildup like dryness and flakiness. “Gentle chemical exfoliants with hydroxy acids (like lactic acid and salicylic acid) can help to reduce flaking and help make sure that hair follicles aren’t clogged with product buildup or oil and keratin debris,” says Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC. On the other hand, some scalp serums might be heavy in oils (with ingredients like pumpkin seed oil, castor oil, or coconut oil), which can be effective for hair growth but might lead to even more product buildup, so it’s best to speak with a board-certified dermatologist about your specific scalp needs. If you experience itching, it can also be helpful to try a scalp serum. “Some people have an itchy scalp because of skin sensitivity and yeast… the serums that address the yeast growth, like those with salicylic acid, or tea tree oil are great for this,” says Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC. “Those who are itchy because of inflammation benefit from niacinamide or calming hyaluronic acid.”
Can scalp serums help hair growth?
“Scalp serums are designed to nourish the scalp, stimulate hair follicles, and create an optimal environment for healthy hair growth,” says Dr. Rambhia. Typically, scalp serums contain ingredients like peptides, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory compounds that can improve scalp circulation, reduce hair thinning and strengthen hair. However, for folks with underlying hair-loss conditions, medical treatment from a board-certified dermatologist is recommended, says Dr. Rambhia. “Scalp serums can be a valuable addition to a comprehensive hair-care regimen, but they are not a substitute for clinical management,” she says. Meaning, scalp serums don’t directly lead to new hair growth.
What’s the difference between hair oil and a scalp serum?
There’s a major difference between hair oils and scalp serums. “Ingredients like castor oil, coconut oil, and rosemary oil in hair oils help moisturize the hair and scalp but are not typically comprehensive treatments for specific scalp issues like itching, dryness, inflammation, and flakes,” says Candace Spann, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in hair loss. On the other hand, scalp serums use a combination of ingredients like clarifying oils and exfoliators to help address these issues.
What should you look for when shopping for a scalp serum?
When choosing a scalp serum to add to your hair and skincare routine, Cavalcante recommends looking out for ingredients that match your needs—like salicylic acid or tea tree for flakes and buildup, peptides, minoxidil, or caffeine for hair growth, and hyaluronic acid for hydration. “I also recommend looking for a lightweight texture, especially if you have oily or fine hair, and make sure the applicator is a dropper, to ensure a targeted application,” he says.
Should you apply scalp serum to wet or dry hair?
Scalp serums can be applied to wet or dry scalps but most importantly should be used consistently, says Dr. Spann. It’s also important that your scalp is clean during application for better penetration of ingredients and that you follow the instructions for each product, say Dr. Rambhia.
Is it okay to use scalp serum every day?
“How often to use a scalp serum depends on the ingredients in it,” says Dr. Nazarian. “Most clarifying serums don’t need to be used every day and can be used on a weekly basis. The ones for hair growth and improving circulation to the follicles should be used every day, and need to be used daily for benefits.” If you’re not sure, follow the instructions on the label, or check with your dermatologist to evaluate the ingredients to help guide you.
What are the downsides to using a scalp serum?
The only downside to using a scalp serum is if you overdo it, according to Dr. Queller. “More product doesn’t mean better results,” she says. Applying excessive amounts of scalp serums can lead to buildup, greasiness, itching, irritation, or even folliculitis in some people. Dr. Queller says to also be cautious about heavy fragrances or essential oil-based scalp products, particularly in patients with sensitive skin. “The scalp is still skin, and it can develop irritation or allergic contact dermatitis just like the skin on your face,” she says.
How we evaluated scalp serums
We tested scalp serums for over a month,, though some of us have been using several of these serums for years. When testing, we paid attention to the consistency of the serum, how effortlessly it absorbed, and how our scalp looked and felt post-application. We also looked at how our strands progressed over time, if they looked thicker, and if they were less prone to breakage, thinning, and grayness. Here’s a detailed breakdown:
| By Ingredients | By Format/Texture | By Efficacy |
|---|---|---|
| We looked at scalp serums with ingredients that helped address a variety of concerns, from dryness to oiliness, dandruff, and more. The best ones had ingredients like hyaluronic acid to help the scalp retain moisture, peptides to help thicken thin areas, and BHAs like salicylic acid to gently exfoliate. | Scalp serums that made the cut also had lightweight textures that absorbed easily into the scalp and didn’t weigh down hair or leave behind a greasy residue. Most of the serums on this list can also be applied on wet or dry hair, and some can even be used for styling a slicked-back look. | The best ones we tested thickened our hair at our roots and gave us long-lasting volume to combat thinness. They also addressed hair dullness and made our strands shiny and moisturized, and enhanced our natural hair hues. |
- Rogerio Cavalcante, a NYC-based hairstylist
- Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC
- Hope Mitchell, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Mitchell Dermatology
- Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC
- Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm
- Candace Spann, MD, a board-certified dermatologist specializing in hair loss
- Jenna Queller, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Boca Raton
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