On March 1, 1965, the Omega Speedmaster was officially qualified by NASA for manned space missions. To mark this 60th anniversary, last month the watchmaker hosted journalists from across the world at its HQ in Biel, Switzerland.
The visit spanned three areas: the Omega Museum, which tells the brand’s story through interactive displays and historically significant watches; a tour of its production facilities, including its METAS laboratory where its watches are certified as Master Chronometers; and its calibre 321 workshop, where the brand hand-makes the recently revived movement that powered those early Speedys used in the most famous NASA missions.
This was followed by a round-table group interview with Raynald Aeschlimann, Omega’s voluble and charismatic CEO.
The Omega Slimline worn by John F. Kennedy at his inauguration. The rectangular, yellow gold, hand-wound watch was a gift from a friend and campaign supporter, Grant Stockdale
The Omega Museum, housed in architect Shigeru Ban’s glass-and-steel Cité du Temps, is equal parts experience centre and brand archive. A 360-degree film charts the history of timekeeping, and a digital world time floor map mirrors Omega’s global reach. There’s a lunar surface recreation, a working Olympic sprint track and a massive walk-in Speedmaster case. Along one wall, 64 models tell the brand’s story through steel, gold and ceramic.
A highlight of the visit was a table exhibition featuring some of the most historically significant Speedmasters and space-related models in Omega’s collection—many of which are seldom allowed out from behind glass.
“We could not start this topic without speaking about this piece here,” our guide said, gesturing to a small, elegant gold watch. “It was owned by President Kennedy—given to him before his election. Engraved ‘President of the United States’. The space race, in many ways, starts with him.”
Also on hand were privately owned models that flew in space.
“At the beginning, the watch was not on NASA’s checklist,” Omega’s head of brand heritage explained. “It came from the astronauts themselves—pilots used to wearing wristwatches as backup instruments.”
There were watches worn on Apollo 7, and by Gene Cernan on Apollo 17.
“This one was worn on Apollo 7 by Walt Cunningham. And that one—that’s the last watch worn on the moon by Gene Cernan,” we were told. “Very, very special watches. We are lucky to have them here.”
Both were on loan from the Smithsonian.
“They’re still property of the U.S. government and the Smithsonian. But we have a great relationship. We send our own watchmakers to help conserve their collection.”
Historic Speedmasters (L-R): The first Omega in space, worn by Walter “Wally” Schirra as he orbited the Earth six times aboard Sigma 7 in October 1962; Donn Eisele’s watch, worn on Apollo 7, the first crewed flight of NASA’s Apollo program, October 1968; and Harrison Schmitt’s Apollo 17 watch, worn on the moon by Gene Cernan in December 1972
Several models illustrated Omega’s journey through NASA’s technical qualification process, particularly the reference 105.003, known as the “Ed White” Speedmaster. This was the model subjected to 11 tests under NASA engineer Jim Ragan, to earn that “flight qualified” delineation—including extreme heat, cold, pressure, shock and humidity.
“The Speedmaster survived all 11 tests: high and low temperature, shock, pressure, humidity, acceleration—the lot. It was the only watch that passed.” Astronauts had independently selected the same model for use. “Jim Ragan also gave the watches to astronauts for feedback. Turns out they made the same choice he did—the Speedmaster just worked better.”
Gold Speedmasters of incredible provenance, at the Omega Museum
There was also a group of gold Speedmasters from a commemorative series created after the 1969 Moon landing. These watches were engraved and numbered, and gifted to astronauts and US government officials. Richard Nixon and vice president Spiro Agnew declined theirs due to protocol.
Several other NASA-worn watches were shown, that looked pretty beaten up.
“You might notice some are missing bezels,” we were told. “Sometimes astronauts would remove them for better visibility. Or they were damaged in training. The JB Champion bracelets were fragile [cheap, by today’s standards, mesh designs]—designed to break if someone got stuck. Better that than a jammed suit.”
Inside the Omega factory
The calibre 321 workshop provided a quieter, more focused perspective.
This was the movement used in NASA’s original Moonwatches, which Omega revived in 2019 after decades of absence. Without original schematics, the team used tomography to scan Gene Cernan’s watch, then rebuilt the movement from scratch.
Today each movement is assembled start to finish by a single watchmaker—a full-day job. The pieces are finished by hand and adjusted for both aesthetics and function. We were shown three models that house that movement: a platinum version with meteorite subdials, a white gold tribute to the 1957 original, and a steel homage to Ed White.
Next came the testing facility—home to Omega’s Master Chronometer certification. Developed in partnership with METAS, this testing goes beyond COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute certification, used by Rolex, Breitling, Tag Heuer etc, and includes such real-world assessments as anti-magnetism, water resistance, shock and temperature fluctuations.
Watches are exposed to intense magnetic fields inside a 1.5-ton magnet—if they still keep time, they pass. Accuracy is tested visually by photographing hand positions over 24 hours. The process includes rotating watches through rooms held at 23°C and 33°C, simulating daily use. Water resistance is confirmed with a “sauna” test—after submersion, watches are heated, then exposed to a drop of cold water. If moisture condenses on the crystal, it’s rejected.
Every finished watch is tested, not just the movement. If anything fails—even a seal—it’s pulled, fixed and retested from scratch.
Omega’s in-house standard has now become a benchmark. COSC remains, but Master Chronometer status is harder to earn.
The Snoopy patch, part of the presentation box for the Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary, which was released on October 5, 2020. It commemorated the 50th anniversary of NASA’s Silver Snoopy Award being bestowed upon Omega for its role in the Apollo 13 mission
The glaring omission from the visit was the reveal of any new commemorative Speedmasters, although the latest in a line of celebrity teases, as well as the word of the brand’s CEO later that afternoon, suggested something would be coming down the line.
One might suggest that Omega had already been pipped to the milestone by its stablemate within the same organisation, Swatch, whose HQ is across the road in Biel. On the very day of the NASA anniversary it launched the 30th (!) iteration of its never-ending line of Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch plastic watches, the MoonSwatch 1965.
We have it on good authority that not every Omega employee is thrilled to bits by its stablemate half-inching its IP, with some considering editions like the Omega x Swatch Mission to Moonphase MoonSwatch edition, featuring Snoopy on the dial, to be a play too far—Snoopy, despite appearances, became a serious NASA mascot in 1968 to promote crew safety and mission success. (The Silver Snoopy Award is personally given by astronauts to exceptional NASA personnel, and a likeness of the beagle even flew aboard Apollo 10.)
Then again, perhaps Omega is too busy concentrating on developing its own suite of drool-worthy versions of the Speedmaster to be too bothered by Swatch’s hype-y releases.
In March 2024 it finally released the white dial Moonwatch that Daniel Craig wound everyone up by wearing at an event months earlier.
The glossy white lacquer-dialled number—a striking inversion of the classic black-dial formula and one that referenced Omega’s “Alaska Project” prototypes—is still much sought-after at retail, and on the secondary market.
Omega followed that by reviving the “First Omega in Space” model, discontinued around 2020 after its 2012 debut. The watch commemorates Walter “Wally” Schirra’s personal Speedmaster CK2998, worn during his 1962 Sigma 7 mission—three years before the Speedmaster earned its official NASA qualification.
The brand also released the Speedmaster Pilot, a “flight-qualified” chronograph that first appeared “leaked” on the wrist of a U-2 spy plane pilot at 67,976 feet. Originally developed for US military aviators, the eye-catching model features an artificial horizon indicator at 9 o’clock, aviation-inspired orange accents reminiscent of the classic Flightmaster, and Omega’s automatic calibre 9900 movement. Its matte black dial and extensive luminous treatment are designed for cockpit legibility, but just happen to look very cool in civilian life.
Don Eisele’s Speedmaster, worn on Apollo 7
Or perhaps economic turbulence may explain the missing commemorative Speedmaster.
Omega—like the Swiss watch industry—is navigating new US tariffs and currency instability. Raynald Aeschlimann noted the world had been “shaken” by surprise tariffs, hinting at staggered launches and pricing changes to come.
The company operates a surprisingly delicate balancing act.
It makes over 500,000 watches yearly, yet hand-assembles the calibre 321. It builds cutting-edge movements but keeps the Speedmaster Professional manual-wound and hesalite-crystalled, like the 1960s original. It collaborates on sub-£250 MoonSwatches but builds ultra-complicated pieces for the 1 per cent.
Aeschlimann’s job, then, is far from straightforward. Not that he gives the impression of a man under the cosh.
The grandson of a Swiss watchmaker, he has worked for Omega for 30 years, becoming CEO in 2016. Your guess is as good as mine as to what he’s like to work for, but in meet-the-media style situations he is a highly entertaining, if not especially revealing presence (the two things may not be unconnected).
His communication style is unique. He answers questions with more questions, often entirely unconnected to the original point, and ping-pongs between subjects with forthright, unpredictable energy.
He is a striking figure—rail-thin, impeccably dressed and with luxurious hair that becomes part of the delivery. He runs his hands through it to make points, underline thoughts or add theatricality to whatever subject he’s landed on next. Your best and only option is to sit back and listen as he talks. And he certainly talks.
His answer to the very first question at our round-table, something about tariffs and VAT, lasted 19 minutes and 34 seconds.
Below are highlights from that interview session, edited—in the modern parlance—for length and clarity.
Omega CEO Raynald Aeschlimann
On the sudden popularity of pink watches.
This new pink MoonSwatch! And also Hublot. We’re not Hublot! I’m not saying anything bad about Hublot. They’ve been very strong at creating a lot of new colours and things like that with one watch that was very well known [the Big Bang]. I would have never done a pink Speedy. Why? Because we never had one [historically]. And I’m not sure it would be right for Omega, honestly. But for Swatch… I mean, it’s one of the best collabs for me.
On why Omega is one of the last major watch brands not to participate in the Watches and Wonders trade fair.
I’ve not been at Watches and Wonders myself. I’m invited, but I don’t go. Why you go to the swimming pool of your friend, when you have a lake?
On rival brands’ lack of authenticity.
Why create pilot watches if you’ve never, ever had a watch on a pilot’s wrist? But it happens.
On why his meeting room at Omega HQ is a bit shabby.
We had a big plan to renovate this room. But we prefer to invest for our stores.
On why Paris now has the edge over London.
Paris has taken a big advantage with the Olympic Games [Omega is the official timekeeper of the Games]. It’s all about experiences. Within an hour and 30 minutes, a bit more, you’re in London from Paris. I’m not going to judge it, but if you got to London now, you cannot get the VAT back [the UK ended its VAT refund scheme for international visitors after Brexit].
On learning from his boss.
I wanted Mr Hayek to be here today [Nick Hayek Jr is the CEO of the Swatch Group, Omega’s parent organisation]. Not to brown-nose, or anything. But I’ve been the CEO [of Omega] for 10 years, and I had the privilege to grow in my career with Mr Hayek. And still today. And [one of the company’s big successes] was creating the Swatch [the brainwave of Nicolas Hayek senior]. And what was the idea of Swatch? Like the lesson you learn in every business school—it’s all about niche.
On being proud of Omega’s shop in the Swiss capital.
I was there for the first opening more than 20 years ago. We opened that boutique in Zurich and it is still in the top five of the world. Even though the Swiss franc is so high. Even though there’s not that many tourist groups anymore. And Zurich is maybe not the best city to visit. Last year, it was one of our best-performing stores. Why? Because we decided at that time to create the proximity to our consumers like I wouldn’t even have dreamed about. Having the door always open. To have the people coming in and talking to us.
On having a roster full of innovations.
Twenty years ago, we didn’t have all that we have today—Co-Axial, Master Chronometer, all these incredible renovations of the 321, blah, blah, blah. You know I can speak a lot about all these iconic watches.
On keeping a close eye on sales.
Whenever I wake up, I read all my emails [i.e. the overnight sales reports]. And it’s all about what happened in the States, where we’re blooming. And also some of the countries where it’s a bit more difficult [i.e. China]. But I can tell you—Ginza—we sold seven watches [last night]. You want me to show you? [Starts flicking through emails]. Look at this. The first one is [sold to] a female from China. Then Japan—a Constellation. Then a white Speedy. Then the two-tone. The 321 steel-on-steel. And the one we call “Bond style”. Then [another] white one. And then some straps. You also have to sell straps! This is what is very interesting about creating the need. Creating the products that make people decide that now is the time to buy these watches.
On watch legend Jean-Claude Biver.
Who would be the next pope of the watch industry? I know one guy has been away for a lifetime! He’s kind of a pope when he yells at everybody. But he’s not anymore in the group. Now he creates—like every pope must create—a watch for himself.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 42 mm, steel on steel; ref. 310.30.42.50.04.001, aka the “white dial”
On the hit “white dial” Speedmaster.
We could have done it five years ago. That would have been a disaster. We had to create our strategy by creating the most incredible “Omega house”—in terms of a collection [i.e. a family of different models]. Yes, we have many different collections. Yes, it’s not always easy [to understand how those families are defined]. But what kind of story do I want to create [as CEO]? That is what is very interesting about creating a watch brand.
On the challenges facing the market.
It’s not an easy task. Suddenly you’re in front of your stakeholders. That is not easy. And we’re doing everything in Switzerland. And in this difficult time, the Swiss franc is getting higher and higher. It makes [business] discussions for us even more difficult. What we do is that we keep to our strategies. I’m not going to come tomorrow with something opportunistic [i.e. a hype watch or a trendy collab]. In the long term, you’ll destroy your company. It’s not about another “firework” that can get people excited. That’s all marketing. You need to create histories.
Inside the Omega workshop, Biel, Switzerland
On why every store is important.
You create desire within a local base. The local base is very important. From the 170 stores Omega has in the world today, there are only one or two countries, China and the USA, where we have [as many as] 30 boutiques. But it’s tough for us, because it’s no longer the case that you have one country that is creating the whole success of the world. We have a boutique in Athens. So, we work [just as hard] there. Of course, we’re not stupid. You will never believe that the Athens business will take over our China business. So, what we have to do is very much keep on what we do. Because the success will come—just the traffic is a bit less.
On doubling down on the Speedmaster.
Of course, times are difficult. This is why we’re working [in a more concentrated way] on Speedmaster—creating this whole collection with the backbone of having this 60-year relationship with NASA. The storytelling of the Speedmaster has no competition. And not to work on this, or to abuse it, would be a mistake. That’s what we want to celebrate.
Who watches the watch men?
On the allure of luxury.
What is the most important reason for buying all our watches? It’s for buying what we all call “luxury”. You know How to Spend It? I love this magazine! I think the guy who found the name How to Spend It for a magazine—he should be the king. Because that’s exactly what we want. You want to have quality. It’s all about that feeling. You have to feel good.
On the problems with retail in China.
The thing everybody worries about with China is: what’s going to happen next? This kind of uncertainty doesn’t help luxury.
On creating watches that generate excitement.
Watches and Wonders is not my cup of tea. It’s not who we are. But I’m not going to criticize. My mission today, even more than at any time, is to work on our values—and that is what we’ve created with the white Speedy. And with The First Omega In Space. Because in these difficult times, it’s this superior emotion that’s going to make the difference.
On not being a brand for watch geeks.
I don’t want to be, with Omega, a “community watch”. Meaning: only talking to one kind of consumers. You know: we are a universal brand.
On upcoming launches.
We have a fantastic watch coming in May, for all the guys who love Omega. You might hear about an event in June. We have a ladies’ watch coming. With that one we are being courageous and playing to our strengths.
On keeping a positive attidue.
At lunchtime I was with Grant Dalton from Team New Zealand [Dalton is CEO of Emirates Team New Zealand]. Sailing is all about [a positive state of mind]. I don’t know if you’ve seen this YouTube video. It’s amazing. I shouldn’t criticize Formula 1 or car driving, but this guy is in an interview with a journalist. It’s very funny. You’ll laugh!
“Why did you win?”
“Oh, I think I had a problem with my car.”
“But you won.”
“Yeah, I think I had a problem with my car.”
“But you actually won!”
“Yeah, I think I had a problem…”
The guy always says that he’s a loser. He doesn’t see that he’s been winning.
It’s much funnier than when I do it.
On creating desire.
When we have customers coming into our store saying, “Wow, I need that. I should not.” I love when a customer tells me “I should not!” I always tell my store managers, “If there is a guy waiting at the door in the morning”—which happens some days—“you should give him the bottle of champagne.” That’s good for us! It’s what we need.
On not creating “off-catalogue” watches.
We don’t do personalization [other companies, notably Rolex, create off-catalogue watches that are not publicly advertized and are only offered to select VIP clients. They often feature unique materials and gem-setting and are highly collectable]. There were some very big consumers [i.e. rich people] who say, “Everybody knows me from that [one-off] watch.” There’s one guy from Japan that you might know. We’re not doing [things like that]. Because I believe that we are—as I said—a universal brand.
On the fact that, actually, Omega has made some pretty exclusive models.
When I took the risk of creating this “1014” gold Speedmaster… people said, “Oh!” [In 2019, Omega released the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Limited to 1,014 watches and crafted from 18ct “Moonshine” gold, it retailed for £27,850] We could still continue to sell quite a lot of those. But this was a limited edition because it was very much in our heritage and with respect for what we’ve done [previously].
On the customer’s opinion being more important than ever.
It’s very interesting to see that the consumers are starting to be in the spotlight of all of us. I always say, the more you talk about watches, the more my brand will come into the front line. If you like it, or you don’t like it.
On the fact he doesn’t mind Swatch having a MoonSwatch that commemorates Omega’s anniversary.
I love this “1965”. My boss is sitting over there on the fourth floor [points to Hayek’s office]. Sometimes he calls me in: “Raynald, are you happy with the advertising?” He’s my boss. I say “Of course.” We all have a boss.
On the news there’s another new Swatch collab coming.
Even today, I saw something different. A collab. Not with Omega, by the way.
On knowing when not to do limited editions.
I was [Omega’s] Chief Commercial Officer for 16 years. And I’ve been the one sometimes pushing a bit for limited editions. A salesman is a salesman. I have to blame myself. Look at LV [Louis Vuitton]… I love Japanese artists. The Murakami thing. He’s come back and as everyone says—it’s a safe choice [Japanese artist Takashi Murakami helped usher in a trend of luxury brands collaborating with pop artists when he worked with Louis Vuitton in 2003. The pair recently revived their collaboration.] My whole mission is about the whole image, the whole message. I prefer the success of the white dial—honestly, that creates a new generation of desire.
On when we can expect a new Speedmaster.
Honestly, it was never really our target to celebrate [the March date of the NASA anniversary] with any special limited watches. I prefer to come in six, eight months, ten months with something that is a bit more of a celebration of the whole history. There’s enough to talk about than just take one date and do it as a “trick”. The watch itself [is bigger] than any commercial target that we could have. So, yes, this year, we’ll still have some discussion about Speedmaster. Definitely. Because it’s a line that has been increasing tremendously over the last five years.
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