Welcome to Dialed In, Esquire’s column bringing you horological happenings and the most essential news from the watch world.
When Vacheron Constantin’s yellow-gold 222 watch debuted in 2022, it was utterly unexpected. A reissue of the sexy, sporty timepiece created for the brand’s 222nd anniversary in 1977, it was a drastic departure from the utilitarian tool watches that dominated the market at the time. Suddenly, unabashed ’70s glamour was back. It attracted attention across the industry. And though suffused with Vacheron DNA—the 222 inspired the Overseas line, a pillar since 1996—it was somehow no less surprising. So how would the brand follow up this knockout?
The next two years came and went. Crickets. Then, at the beginning of January, VC dropped a second 222 in stainless steel. It wasn’t what insiders expected. Given the 222 reissue’s success, it would be easy to produce new editions in precious metals. Collectors would be all over them. But steel’s daytime demeanor means more people can get their head around wearing it—even if the $32,000 list price remains lofty.
The new version offers the same slim proportions (37mm in diameter, 8mm thick) and low-key glitzy vibe as its predecessor. But it’s also a harbinger of the future, a sign that dressy styles—albeit sporty takes—are now defining the look and feel of high-end watches.
Photograph by Ryan Jenq
Set design by Linden Elstran
This story appears in the April/May 2025 issue of Esquire magazine
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