I’m not going to lie to you, I simply do not see a wool coat as a trendy, seasonal buy. Whether you go new or second hand, the goal here is to have a coat that will last no less than a decade. Any coat on this list is made for life; I guarantee that.
But here are some things to look out for.
Fabric: Pure wool (no matter the weave) is the standard, but blending in other fabrics can give you different qualities. Todd Snyder (among other brands I didn’t list) uses silk to create sheen and softness. Military surplus coats often blend in synthetics, which are meant to give weather resistance on a battlefield or parade route. But at the end of the day, I say go for as much wool as possible.
Shoulders: For me, this is where much of a coat’s appearance is derived. With overcoats, you can break this into two camps: natural and structured. Natural includes the raglan shoulders or soft sewn shoulders, and it creates a more versatile coat. Structured shoulders—see Mark Powell and Edward Sexton for the most structured examples—give you the shape of classic tailoring, regal and confident. Most guys these days, I imagine, want a softer shoulder that’s easier to wear. But if this is a formal coat, I strongly encourage as much structure as you can afford.
Other Shape Options: Are you a double-breasted guy? Single-breasted? Or would you prefer a turnover collar (like the one on your shirts) instead of lapels (like the ones on your suits)? Do you want a belt that can you can tie off for extra wind protection? This is all personal preference; no right or wrong.
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