Welcome to a special Watches and Wonders edition of Dialed In, Esquire’s column bringing you the most essential news from the watch world. As the show takes place in Geneva, we’ll keep you up to date on the biggest makers’ biggest releases of the year.
There must be something in the water in Geneva. Even though it’s still March in the States, the Swiss just switched months—and the change could not have come sooner, it seems. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen so many major announcements arrive in my inbox on the official day of—but well before the official opening of—Watches and Wonders. Regardless of what they’re dumping in the lake, the announcements ain’t slowing down. So I’m starting you, the loyal Esquire reader, off with the big news from Rolex.
The brand just announced its key releases for 2025, and there’s a lot to talk about. The Daytona gets a new turquoise blue lacquer dial while a white gold GMT-Master II has the distinction of being Rolex’s first ceramic dial (in an appropriately envy-inducing shade of green). The Oyster Perpetual now comes in a range of pastels. And the dressy 1908 is available for the first time on a yellow gold bracelet. But even with all that happening, the smart money—when it comes to what’ll get the industry talking—is on the Land-Dweller.
The Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40 in 950 platinum.
With a whopping 18 patents exclusive to the new watch (and 32 related to it in total), the Land-Dweller is both a technical leap forward and a big nod to the collector community. Consider, for instance, the fact that there’s an integrated bracelet. Before that became A Thing for watch nerds, it’d be hard to imagine Rolex bringing something quite that specific into the core offering. But now, with hardcore fans and casual observers alike enamored of the sleek-but-sporty design choice? Well, it seems pretty damn reasonable.
“This is a big moment for Rolex and the watch industry as a whole,” says Paul Artieri, founder of secondhand marketplace Bob’s Watches and an expert on all things relating to the Crown. “Rolex doesn’t introduce new models lightly, and the Land-Dweller marks a rare departure from tradition. An integrated bracelet isn’t just a design shift—it’s a statement. It signals that even the most established brands recognize the evolving tastes of collectors and enthusiasts. For a company built on consistency, this kind of move is significant.”
The “flat Jubilee” bracelet in Rolesor.
Beyond that big-move bracelet, there’s also a striking honeycomb dial—sure to be an oft-imitated status symbol in no time flat—as well as the thin calibre 7135 movement, which is helped along by a highly energy-efficient “Dynapulse” escapement and beats at 5 Hz, meaning it measures time to a tenth of a second. You can opt for the 40mm version in Rolesor (white gold and Oystersteel) or platinum; both versions come with a fluted bezel. If you prefer diamonds, the 36mm take on the Land-Dweller is offered in 18 ct Everose gold and has a bezel full of them.
The 36mm Land-Dweller in 18 ct Everose gold.
While striking releases like last year’s “Celebration” Oyster Perpetual were notable for their willingness to have fun with aesthetics, the Land-Dweller is something else entirely. It’s proof positive that the folks at Rolex are willing to bet that new and lasting additions to the pantheon of legendary designs are possible in our ever-more-digitized world. Here’s hoping they’re right.
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