It was a very big year for watches. Such a big year, in fact, that you could easily be forgiven for finding it a little overwhelming. When pretty much every Swiss maker is releasing swoon-worthy timepieces, how’s a fan supposed to keep up? Well, you could spend every waking moment scouring blogs and social media, hoping to follow along in real time. Or you could just look at our roundup of the best watches of 2024. Read on for our top picks from the year that was.
Above, from left: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph ($11,250): The iconic square Steve McQueen watch from Le Mans is given the contemporary treatment in blackened titanium with a skeletonized navy-blue dial. Bell & Ross BR-X5 Blue Lum ($13,300): A groundbreaking cocktail of quartz fibers and luminescent material makes not only the hands and numerals light up after dark but the whole case, too. Omega Speedmaster Anniversary Series “First Omega in Space” Chronograph ($7,900): A faithful homage to the second-generation Speedmaster worn by NASA astronauts during multiple missions in space but with a modern chronometer movement. Tudor Black Bay Chrono ($5,675): A purist’s rendition of the chronographs that Tudor launched in the 1970s with a Mediterranean-blue dial and bezel. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface ($8,900): This new size is almost identical to the 1931 original’s, featuring a flipping mechanism to protect the dial on the polo field.
From left: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph ($21,500): A solid-gold take on the updated Carrera shape that debuted in 2023. Tiffany & Co. Union Square ($16,500): Inspired by an archival piece, it’s a nod to Tiffany & Co.’s early days in Union Square before moving uptown to Fifth Avenue. Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility ($13,000): Made of titanium carbide, it takes its cues from watches made for the West German Air Force in the ’70s, which were blackened to reduce glare in the cockpit. Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding ($25,500): A celebration of Vacheron’s ’50s heyday, when the brand led the market in sleek gold dress watches.
From left: Breitling Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary ($59,000): One of three watches to carry Breitling’s first-ever in-house perpetual calendar chronograph movement. If kept wound, it’s correct until March 1, 2100. Rolex Deepsea ($54,200): A grail watch for Rolex diver nerds since it appeared in steel in 2008, the Deepsea is now available in 18k yellow gold for the first time.
From left: Santos de Cartier ($7,750): This Cartier is widely considered the first wristwatch, with a design dating back to 1904; it’s given a whiff of ’70s glamour with a coffee-colored sunray dial. Bulgari Aluminium x Fender ($4,200): This GMT is one of the coolest travel watches out there. The special edition has a dégradé brown dial made in collaboration with Fender. Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date ($3,915): The latest in a collection that launched in 2022, it features a bronze case and a black dial inspired by the glacier below the summit of Mont Blanc.
From left: Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT Ceramica ($19,500): Panerai’s burly 44mm Luminor, here executed as a GMT in matte-black ceramic with a deep-green dial and a whopping ten-day power reserve. Movado Alta Super Sub Sea Automatic ($3,795): A new—and unusual—update on a ’60s Movado classic, this chronograph comes in superior 904L stainless steel and features a green bezel and sub-dials.
This story appears in the Winter 2024/25 issue of Esquire Magazine
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