Nigo calls Nike his all-time favorite brand.
The revelation is a bit unsurprising if you’re familiar with his career. The Japanese designer who has helped define streetwear since 1993 through his labels Bape and Human Made, has always been obsessed with American pop culture. Arguably his most well-known design, A Bathing Ape’s Bape Sta sneaker, is a riff on the Air Force 1. His atelier in Tokyo is full of Star Wars relics and century-old Levi’s denim. Along the way, American consumers have returned the favor, thanks in large part to musicians from Pharrell to Lil Uzi Vert championing his work.
But for decades, the General’s love wasn’t reciprocated by the brand in Beaverton. He was a repeat collaborator with Adidas from 2003 to 2022, but he’s never officially worked with Nike. Until now.
Two colorways of the Air Force 3 design by Nigo will be released on Saturday, Sept. 28 exclusively through Human Made’s retail channels and a pop-up activation being held at Steven Victor’s new Victor Victor retail space in New York City. One features a white leather upper, while the other, more limited pair opts for a navy blue patent leather base. The white version will receive a global launch on Oct. 4 through Nike SNKRS and other select stockists. Both incorporate an array of colors across the Air Force 3’s many panels–baby pink suede wrapping the toe, red on the Swoosh and midsole, kelly green on the eyestay, and yellow on the triangular wings.
The Air Force 3 isn’t something that people were clamoring for. Frankly, it’s a bit of a forgotten silhouette from Nike’s vast archive. It’s been largely untouched since its debut in 1988. But for Nigo, the model is a special piece from his long-standing infatuation with the brand.
“I loved [the Air Force 3] and wore it often in the late ’80s,” Nigo tells Complex. “For me, it is a hidden masterpiece.”
Nigo posing in a crewneck from his debut Nike collection. Via Nike
The rainbow of colors splashed across each pair immediately calls to memory the vast assortment of loud patent leather Bape Stas that took over streetwear in the 2000s when Nigo was still at the helm of A Bathing Ape (he stepped away from the company he founded in 2013). Those took cues from pop culture characters like SpongeBob Squarepants and The Incredible Hulk.
Nigo’s Air Force 3s also officially call back to pop culture, referencing Super Sentai, a long-running Japanese television series that features a group of heroes which don the aforementioned colors that appear across the shoe’s upper. Stateside you’re probably more familiar with the Power Rangers, which used Super Sentai as source material.
“I wanted to come up with a concept and story that was personal to me,” says Nigo. “Japanese children grow up watching the Sentai series on TV, and I enjoyed that too.”
While he can’t delve into it just yet, we’ve already gotten a glimpse at the second chapter of Nigo x Nike. A leak this week showed brown and tan Air Forces 3s, complete with pony hair paneling that take cues from Planet of the Apes, the 1968 film that also inspired Bape’s logo and has been referenced by Nigo through various designs since the ‘90s. They are just one of the handful of future pairs that are teased with easter eggs across the packaging and campaign imagery for the project.
Before the Nike launch this weekend, Complex corresponded with Nigo over email for this interview. In it, Nigo dives deeper into the inspiration for his long-awaited Nike debut, views on collaboration, and if we will ever see a Curry Up in the United States.
What are your general thoughts on collaborations? There are so many happening these days. How do you approach yours to make sure they still feel special and cut through all of the noise?
Collaboration has evolved into a normal practice of modern business, often taking on a distinctly commercial flavor. The foundational idea is a 50/50 partnership, where both parties contribute equally, yet the effectiveness of these collaborations can vary significantly.
The emphasis should be on creating experiences that resonate with joy and satisfaction, not just profit. The thrill of the creative process itself becomes a vital ingredient. When creators find joy in their work, that enthusiasm radiates outward, forming a deeper connection with the audience.
An official collaboration between you and Nike feels long overdue. How did this partnership finally come together?
As my contract with another brand was nearing its conclusion, I received an unexpected offer from Nike—my all-time favorite brand. The opportunity to work with a company that has inspired me for so long was nothing short of a dream come true. It wasn’t just a career move; it felt like stepping into a world I had always admired from the outside.
Did that level of anticipation add any pressure?
There was no pressure whatsoever, it was all about having fun.
Prior to this, has a Nike collab ever come close to happening in your career?
It’s something that was never realized until now in my career, it felt somewhat like my own unrequited love.
The Nigo x Nike Air Force 3 Low launches on Sept. 28 via Human Made’s retail channels and a special pop-up at the Victor Victor store in NYC. Via Nike
Many people may have expected you to do an Air Force 1. Why did you settle on the Air Force 3 Low? What is the significance of the Air Force 3 to you and your career?
For better or worse, I always want to exceed expectations. The first thing that came to mind was Air Force 3. I loved it and wore it often in the late 80’s. For me it is a hidden masterpiece with almost no reissues until now.
Can you about the inspiration behind the colorways, Super Sentai? Why did you choose to reference that program for this project?
Regarding the colors, I wanted to come up with a concept and story that was personal to me. Japanese children grow up watching the Sentai series on TV, and I enjoyed that too. There was also a strong Japanese theme that I wanted to include.
Can you talk about what each color represents on the upper? How did you decide on colorblocking?
Again, the main inspiration is from the Sentai series and the colors that were used on those shows.
The debut colorway references ‘Super Sentai,’ a long-running Japanese television series. Via Nike
Are there any hidden details you can discuss?
I designed dozens of patterns before settling on this color, and finally selected it from among them. I was particular about it because the impression of the shoe changes completely depending on the placement.
Even the box is customized. Some people overlook the packaging. Why was that such an important element of this project for you?
The box is a hint to future projects. These details are important to me and to have fun with the design of the accessories. So sometimes the things that seem unimportant can also be important.
The poster by Tony Stella, how did that come together?
Storytelling is really important. So the idea was to create a fictional movie in which I would be the lead role; there are five different characters I am playing in this fictional movie. Each role I play is linked to a future design, so it’s also a teaser for future projects similar to the box. It was a dream come true that Tony Stella is working on it, I really love his work.
I love how you remixed the Nike logo to read Nigo. Was it tough to get that done? Did it take some convincing? Any particular reason why you made the heel branding chrome?
I had this idea from the beginning because of the obvious similarities between the two names. The Nike team was also really into this as well. I also like that it reminds me a little of a bootleg. I used chrome for the robot-like elements that appear in Sentai for this project.
The bright colors also remind me of your classic Bape Stas from the 2000s. Was that an intentional nod to your history?
I guess it means that what I like has not changed in the past or in the present. There is an unwavering version of myself there.
What is your favorite detail on the sneaker? Why?
I don’t have any particular details that I like, I usually wear mostly straight denim and a t-shirt. I like sneakers that go with jeans, low tech rather than high tech.
We also saw you wearing a much more muted brown and white pair before. It looked very inspired by the “Escape” Air Force 3 High. Will those ever be released?
That is exactly the color I wore when I was young. I bought them on my first trip abroad to LA in 1989. Those shoes were a gift from the Nike team and there are no plans to release them.
How did you approach the apparel side of this project?
These are really mostly old school, classic items. I was inspired by the Nike archives and iconic products from the same period as the shoes.
Was there ever discussions to make this collab through Human Made or Kenzo, as opposed to billing it as a Nigo project?
There wasn’t really any discussion about doing those projects, every project I treat separately. Like Kenzo and Human Made, this Nike project is a stand-alone project that I design. This way, I am not restricted by anything, and my creativity can be more free.
What other sneakers in the Nike archive would you love to work on one day?
Nike’s archives are a treasure trove. There are so many models I would like to work on that I probably will not be able to do it all before in my lifetime. If I could, I would like to create a completely new sneaker design.
Many of your friends like, Verdy, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Cactus, and Yoon are Nike collaborators. Would you like to work with them one day on a sneaker? If so, what do you think it would be?
Verdy is one of my best friends, Hiroshi is my mentor, and Cactus is one of my favorite brands. Their collaboration with Nike is always unique and inspiring. I don’t think there is any room for me to break in there.
We would love to see a Human Made store or Curry Up in the US. Do you have any interest in operating a store in the US?
Of course I am interested. Curry Up has recently opened a store in Hong Kong and that is very exciting. Human Made also hopes to open a store in the US soon.
You have accomplished so much in your career? What still excites you? What is still left on your list of goals that you would like to check off?
It may be a challenge, but just when you think you’ve finally reached your goal, there’s always something beyond that. I don’t have any specific goals. I just love clothes, music, and culture.
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