Ahead, Valles breaks down how to use hair rollers and shares a step-by-step guide for achieving the bouncy, beautiful hairstyle.
How to use hair rollers
As it turns out, it’s actually pretty easy. Just take it step-by-step. First, divide up sections of your hair. Valles recommends starting at the top of your head and working your way down. Regardless of whether you have short hair, long hair, curly hair, or fine hair, “I always like to start on top because I want that to get the most heat and have the roller sit the longest, because it’s usually where you want most of the volume,” she says. You don’t have to be exact with the sectioning; just make sure each section has a good chunk of hair (more on that later). “Do big sections here, because we’re not trying to have a really curly look,” she says.
Next, choose your hair roller size. For a ’90s blowout, it’s go big or go home. Valles recommends using the biggest rollers in your set for the back of the head and one size down for the sides. (She likes to use three-inch and two-inch.) “I go for the biggest ones, because I really want the volume at the root with a little bend on the ends. Obviously the tighter you go, the tighter the curl is. But I don’t really want a curl.”
But this part is all customizable. For a more “done-up” look, you can do your whole head in the same size and direction. Alternate for more natural-looking, beachy waves. If you like the ringlet look (tighter curls), use smaller rollers. Medium-size rollers will give you soft, loose curls or mermaid waves. Choose which type of curl you’d like, and then pick the right size of roller from there. Next, we’ll break down how to use hair rollers based on three popular types: Velcro rollers, hot rollers, and foam rollers.
How to use Velcro rollers
Do you put rollers in wet or dry hair? It depends on the type of hair roller you’re using. When using hook-and-loop (or Velcro), rollers, you want to style slightly damp hair (about 90% dry) or fully dry hair. Then use a volumizing product like a mousse or spray to get that extra oomph in your blowout. Apply the product to the roots and run through the ends.
No matter which type of hair roller you’re using, the way you roll is key. If you want to get volume, make sure you’re rolling the hair under to create that bump. “Go under at a 90-degree angle,” Valles says. Take a large section—about the same width as the roller—and roll under the hair.
Always, regardless of type of hair roller, roll your hair inward and toward your head. You want to start at the the end of your hair, going upward to your roots.
Once you have rolled up to the root, you can use a clip or pin to set the Velcro hair roller, but Valles has an insider tip: She prefers simply pushing the hair roller into place and using the Velcro to secure it (the Velcro essentially clings to the hair to keep the hair roller in place). The minimum time to leave your Velcro rollers in will be 10 minutes for loose waves, but you can leave them in much longer (30 minutes is usually a good idea).
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