Dig deep enough into the history and you’ll learn that some of the most iconic items in menswear have murky origin stories. Even Levi’s isn’t entirely sure why the number 501 was chosen for its jeans. Occasionally, though, you’ll hear about an exception. Take the Dr. Martens 1460 boot. Care to venture a guess as to when that hard-wearing lace-up first hit the production line in Northamptonshire, the English shoemaking capital? The first of April 1960. One, four, sixty. Makes sense (especially when you consider that British date-keeping conventions list the day, then the month and year).
In the 65 years since its debut, the boot has become a subcultural staple, interwoven with everything from the punk scene to goth and grunge. Though the bulk of production has moved overseas, Dr. Martens still has a higher end, Made in England collection devoted to keeping its shoemaking traditions alive. And today—another first of April—the company is releasing a new 1460 ($460) that it calls a “love letter” to the original.
The stamped tongue calls out the date the original 1460 started production.
“This is the pinnacle of our Made in England collection,” says Adam Owen, global design director at Dr. Martens. Crafted in Wollaston, Northamptonshire—“the exact place the iconic 1460 originated from”—the new riff on the boot looks, on first glance, a whole lot like its predecessor. But upon closer inspection, carefully considered details begin to reveal themselves.
The first thing you’ll notice is a new line of stitching on the quarters of the boot, a small flourish borrowed by the Dr. Martens design team from an archival sketch from the ‘60s. “We have such a loyal consumer following and the wearers really nerd out,” says Owen, “so we wanted to give that touch to enable people to find that discoverable detail. Something that’s subtle but extra.” The new stitching is complemented by antique gold eyelets, a “1.4.60” stamp on the tongue, and a pull tab made of the same oxblood leather (from revered Leeds-based tannery C.F. Stead) as the rest of the upper.
Another look at the 1460 “Love Letter.”
“I’m a big advocate of slow design and bringing in a philosophy that emphasizes these subtle, intentional details,” Owen explains. “I think it plays into the longevity of the product. That was something we really wanted to capture in this ‘love letter,’ the idea of it potentially becoming an heirloom piece that can be handed down through generations.”
That doesn’t necessarily mean keeping your boots squirreled away from the world in their box. Though Owen acknowledges the fact that some collectors might want to do just that, he’s of the opinion—as are we, it’s worth noting—that footwear is meant to be, well, worn. And once you do break them out and lace them up, these boots are made to handle whatever you can throw at them. The aniline leather is packed with waxes and oils that’ll help it break in beautifully, Owen says.
“The journey you’ll go on in these boots—if they ever come out of the box—will definitely show itself on there,” he says. “As they age, they’ll get better and better.”
Dr. Martens 1460 Boots
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