A.P.C. Jeans Introduced My Generation to Selvedge. Are They Still Good?

Nothing proves that time is a flat circle more than the resurrection of A.P.C. jeans. The Parisian label had a chokehold on guys (myself included) in the early 2010s—it was basically the gateway drug to selvedge denim. I still remember grabbing a pair of slim-fit Petit Standards for around $185 back in 2013, which was the most I’d ever spent on jeans. The rigidness was a shock to my pre-washed-denim-softened legs—these things could practically stand on their own.

What pulled me in? The insane images I’d see on menswear forums of fades, roping, and whiskering—the denim equivalent of watching Michael Jordan highlights from the Bulls era. And let’s not forget the wild time when dudes were throwing sand on their jeans and then sprinting into the ocean (per A.P.C.’s official suggestion) to “maximize” fades, which is truly unhinged behavior.

A.P.C. denim is coming back, but that doesn’t mean you have to bring back the skinny fit. Bump up the leg width a little and go for the New Standard model. A.P.C. calls them a straight fit, but realistically, they’re more slim-straight. The brand’s aesthetic is still a minimalist’s dream: 100% cotton, no loud branding, no pocket arcuates, no zip-fly—clean, quiet denim that minds its business. I grabbed a 31″ waist since they stretch and shrink back after washing, and had them hemmed from the original 34″ inseam down to 32″. I was trying to avoid repeating a disaster from my earlier days when I hemmed a Petit Standard to 30” only for them to shrink and sadly turn into capris.

Despite the nostalgic joy, I’ve still got a few gripes after my A.P.C. hiatus. I wish the mid-rise were a true high-rise. It feels a little tight—but that could just be my body adjusting after years of swimming in baggy pants. I also wondered why the pockets were still so shallow. With all these supersized iPhones, you’d think A.P.C. would’ve committed to at least one innovation: larger pockets.

I’m still excited to earn my fades over the next year, and I’ve put together three fits to prove that A.P.C.’s New Standards really are the standard. Do I also hear the faint, gold-numbered footsteps of Common Projects returning to the scene, as well? Time is a flat circle, indeed.

Outfit 1: A Denim Nerd’s Day Out (and In)

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Omar Atwan

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Omar Atwan

For a brand known as one of the best denim purveyors on the planet, A.P.C.’s versatility really shows. These jeans swing like a metronome, from casual to dressed-up without missing a beat. I went with an overshirt–wool-blazer mashup and tossed a waffle-knit thermal underneath.

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