How to Buy a Dress Watch

We watch collectors have to be careful lest we become caricatures of ourselves.

“You need a dive watch for diving! A pilot’s watch for flying! A field watch for…fielding! If you just buy (insert watch here), you’ll be strong! Capable! Handsome! Allowed to fly business class to meet a French arms dealer in Haiti on His Majesty’s dime!”

The truth is that the days of needs for specialist watches are almost entirely behind us, and while we are always happy to advise on the purchase of a robust dive watch or a versatile GMT, there’s really only one type of timepiece that we think is a “must buy” in addition to your everyday ticker, and that’s a good dress watch. Why? Because there are certainly occasions that are still sacrosanct in this world—weddings, funerals, bar mitzvot, occasionally the Grammy Awards—and that deserve a bit of respect for sartorial tradition. On these occasions, wearing your Apple Watch is, we’re sorry to say it, just not going to cut it. If you’ve got a tuxedo on your body and a screen on your wrist, your last name better be “Cook.”

On these finer days, you need a watch that communicates respect for the occasion in the same manner as your outfit. This does not mean that the watch needs to be unduly expensive—though it certainly can be, if that’s your particular brand of vodka. Rather, what we’re saying is that this is one corner of horology wherein aesthetics matter. Once you understand what we mean, you’ll be able to pick up a suitable dress watch that fits within your budget, speaks to your taste, and does the job of conveying respect for the day on which it’s being worn. (And if it’s something that your spouse likes, you might be given more financial leash to spend lavishly on it. Don’t tell them we said that, however…)

A (Very) Brief History of Dress Watches

It used to be that a gentleman wore a pocket watch attached to a chain—he slipped the timepiece into his waistcoat pocket and attached the T-bar on the end of the chain to a button-hole on his vest. (Very debonair.) Only ladies used timepieces attached to their wrists, which were called “wristlets.”

Original U.S. WWI Waltham Model 1907 “Trench Watch.”

Pocket watches, however, posed problems during the First World War. Imagine trying to coordinate an infantry charge with a preliminary artillery barrage using a pocket watch in one hand. Sounds needlessly complicated, yes? This is why soldiers began soldering crude lugs onto their pocket watch cases and wearing them on their wrists with leather straps. Eventually, the watch companies themselves began modifying their pocket watches with factory-set lugs. These “trench watches”—which also included modifications such as shrapnel guards and luminous dials coated in radium—were widely adopted during the War, leading even The New York Times to go back, in 1916, on its comment that the man’s “strap watch” was merely a “silly ass fad.”

Though it would hobble on for another few decades, the pocket watch was already being slowly replaced by the wristwatch by the inter-War years. Many of these initial men’s wristwatches were rectangular—the Cartier Tank, designed in 1917 after the shape of an early Renault tank viewed from above, is still one of the great dress watch classics—and watch companies on both sides of the Atlantic churned them out by the millions. In these days before recreational SCUBA diving and the commercial jet airliner, there was little need for more robust, deep-diving, high-flying timepieces, and a simple, time-only, downright dainty watch would largely do the trick for everyday wear. (The automatic movement, perfected by Rolex with its 360-degree winding rotor, wouldn’t become widespread until the mid-20th century. Neither would the date window.)

The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Complete Calendar.

In 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre released its famed rectangular Reverso. Though invented to save the watch crystal during games of polo thanks to a mechanism that allowed the wearer to flip the case around so that the back was facing outwards, it quickly became a dress watch staple. A year later, Patek Philippe debuted the simple reference 96, a time-only dress watch that provided an affordable entry point into the maison’s catalog during the Depression. (Named “Calatrava” in the 1980s, this collection endures today as one of the world’s prototypical dress watches.) After the Second World War, more and more companies began designing and manufacturing their own dedicated sports watches to coincide with the rise in affordable leisure activities and travel. Still, it’s probably fair to say that quite a bit of midcentury watch production was relatively thin, small, and hand-wound—the type of stuff that would certainly scream “dress watch” to a modern collector.

Muhammad Ali wearing a Cartier Tank.

By the late 1990s, watches were starting to become big—like, really big. These 42mm, 44mm, and even 47mm behemoths were, in a way, reflective of the dress codes of the day—think JNCOs, oversized T-shirts, and the like—and eventually, tastes shifted back to more manageable sizes by the late 2010s. At the same time, COVID-19 forced many to work from home, further diminishing the need to have a dedicated, more formal office “uniform.” But the boredom-powered sartorial pendulum always swings back in the opposite direction, and lately, men are once again embracing the impulse to dress it up a little. Which, to our minds, necessitates the consideration of an elegant wristwatch.

But what exactly is a dress watch, and what makes it different than, say, a field watch, let alone a dive watch? We’re so glad you asked…

What to Look for in a Dress Watch

While defining a “dress watch” isn’t as precise a task as a defining a “dive watch”—after all, there are ISO standards for such a thing—we tend to believe that one should be:

• Relatively thin
• Unobtrusive
• Generally time-only—though there are exceptions
• Worn on a simple leather strap (though again, there are exceptions)

Prior to the late 1960s, nearly all dress watches—all watches in general, in fact—were mechanical, but these days we see no reason why a modern one can’t be quartz powered. Automatic (rather than hand-wound) dress watches certainly exist, though finding one that is particularly thin may necessitate spending a bit more on a micro-rotor movement or one with a peripheral rotor.

The Nomos Tangente ref. 101.

While classic dress watches clocked it at well under 40mm—more like 31 to 36mm—many modern examples are 39mm or even 41mm. What is more important to our minds is that the watch be subtle. Keep the loud, flashy colors and features to a minimum, because much of the point of a dress watch is to provide timekeeping in a formal setting. Indeed, many ultra-formal dress watches have no seconds hand at all, the belief being that a gentleman in black or white tie should have little need of such precision when engaged in dining, conversing, smoking a fine cigar, receiving an Academy Award, or whatever the heck people do in such settings.

Dress Watch Considerations

The movement of the IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 as viewed through the exhibition case back.

Movement: Hand-wound is most classic and formal; ultra-thin automatic is a close second; quartz is good for the budget-conscious or for someone who doesn’t give a hoot about horology beyond aesthetics.

Strap/Bracelet: A simple leather strap with a pin buckle is most formal. (A deployant clasp is also common on modern high-end dress watches.) Ditch the NATO or rubber strap, and use your judgement when wearing a bracelet; if you’re gonna wear one, make it thin and elegant, not bulky.

A croc effect Longines leather strap.

Dial: When in doubt, go for a simple, time-only dial in black, silver, or white. There are complicated dress watches, but be sure to choose one that doesn’t call too much attention to itself.

Water Resistance: Many dress watches, by virtue of their thin cases, don’t have much water resistance. Try not to dive into a pool or into the ocean with one unless you happen to work for MI6.

Price: Because dress watches are largely delineated according to aesthetics—and perhaps thinness and strap type—rather than movement or case metal, you can buy one for a couple hundred bucks…or a few-hundred grand. Dealer’s choice, really.

Brands: Many upper-echelon Swiss brands—Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, etc.—are still famed for their dress watches. But more affordable mid-tier brands as well as certain micro-brands that sell direct-to-consumer also make excellent ones.

Where to Buy a Dress Watch

Like watches in many categories, dress watches can be found both through conventional retail channels—monobrand boutiques for the higher-end brands, department stores for many of the mid-tier brands—and via e-commerce for many of the microbrands. We always recommend trying on a watch first to determine its fit and comfort before buying, but many companies offering e-comm do have robust return policies. Always be sure to check the specifics before checking out, however.

Of the myriad microbrands—small, independent watchmaking outfits employing just a handful of people (or even a single person)—fewer of them are engaged in making dress watches than tool watches such as divers, field watches, etc. That being said, perusing someplace such as the WindUp Watch Shop, Worn & Wound’s own e-commerce platform, provides an excellent introduction to these types of companies and their catalogs.

While we’re covering new dress watches here, going the pre-owned or vintage route can be a viable option. We recommend a reputable reseller such as Analog:Shift, Watches of Switzerland’s pre-owned and vintage watches arm, or a vintage watches specialist such as Wind Vintage, or Craft & Tailored. WatchRecon is always an excellent place to do research, and perhaps even make a purchase or trade.

Dress Watches Under $1,000

Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34MM
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When Timex debuted this diminutive hand-wound beauty back in 2017, it sent ripples through the watch world. Not only was it a note-for-note remake of a handsome vintage model from the 1960s, but it was also Timex’s first hand-wound model since 1982…and it cost just $199. (Seven years later, you’ll only have to fork over an additional $10…not bad!) Measuring 34mm and cased in steel, it might not be the stuff of Swiss-made, haute horlogerie-inspired dreams—but it’s good-looking, unisex, understated, and slim. In short, it’s everything you need in a dress watch, and nothing you don’t.

SPECS:
Diameter: 34mm
Movement: Hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $209

Dennison A.L.D. Collection Midnight Aventurine in Stainless
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Inspired by 1960s shapes and featuring trendy stone-cut dials, the new Dennison A.L.D. Collection is a colorful, quartz-powered adventure in fun watchmaking. Housed in a cushion-shaped case, the A.L.D.—for “Aaron Lufkin Dennison,” founder of his namesake casemaking company in the 19th century—imagines what might have happened had the original firm not gone out of business roughly 60 years ago. With a choice of various natural-stone (or sunray-finish) dials and either stainless steel or gold-tone cases, these affordable, hip designs are perfect for someone who likes a bit of whimsy in their dress watches. (Each model has several leather strap color options, adding even more variety.)

SPECS:
Diameter: 33.64mm
Movement: Ronda Caliber 1032-1 quartz
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $690

Junghans Max Bill Quartz
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In the 1950s, Bauhaus designer Max Bill began crafting clocks and watches for German brand Junghans, resulting in a famous, pared-back wristwatch that debuted in 1961. For more than 60 years, the Junghans Max Bill has endured as a symbol of minimalist watch design, with quartz, hand-wound, automatic, and other versions proliferating through the collector community. This 38mm stainless steel iteration is battery powered and features a handsome white dial with a handy date window at 3 o’clock, plus a pair of luminous sword hands and a set of indices in an excellent, modernist typeface. Measuring just 7.9mm tall and paired to a soft tan leather strap, it’ll slip easily under a cuff and look excellent while accessorizing a suit.

SPECS:
Diameter: 38mm
Movement: ETA 955.112 quartz
Water Resistance: 50m
Price: $840

Dress Watches Under $5,000

Baltic has a wide range of affordable, good-looking watches hovering just around the $1,000 mark. Its relatively new Prismic taps into both midcentury dress watch tropes as well as the modern taste for textured, dynamic dials and materials: A multi-part case in steel and titanium contains a dial with guillochéd, grained, and polished sections, while applied, prism-shaped indices and dauphine hands add even more visual interest. Powered by a hand-wound Swiss caliber from ETA Peseux, the Prismic is finished with a mesh bracelet and wears beautifully at 36mm. For roughly $1K, it’s an incredible value.

SPECS:
Diameter: 36mm
Movement: ETA Peseux 7001 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $1,113

Nomos Tangente ref. 101
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Inspired by the Bauhaus design movement, Nomos watches boast some of the cleanest designs on the market. The brand’s pricing, meanwhile—which is largely sub-$5K—is astounding considering the inclusion of in-house movements. The Tangente ref. 101 is emblematic of the company’s philosophy: Measuring a unisex-friendly 35mm in stainless steel and standing just 6.2mm tall, it features angular lugs and a glossy white dial with blued steel pencil hands and Bauhaus typography. If Walter Gropius were alive today, this is no doubt the watch he would choose as his dress watch…or his daily driver, for that matter.

SPECS:
Diameter: 35mm
Movement: NOMOS Alpha hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $1,900

Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase
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It’s not easy to find a complicated dress watch with precious-metal elements and a solid mechanical movement for just a few-thousand bucks, but Longines’ position within the Swatch Group gives it scale and affordability that delight collectors everywhere. The Flagship Heritage Moonphase, available in several executions, is particularly fetching in stainless steel with gilt hands and applied indices. The pièce de résistance, however, is the gilt moonphase indicator contained within the small-seconds display at 6 o’clock, which adds a bit of whimsy to an otherwise reserved design. Paired to a simple, brown leather strap, it could very well be a vintage watch from the mid-20th century.

SPECS:
Diameter: 38.5mm
Movement: Longines L899 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $3,050

Dress Watches Under $15,000

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface
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Born in the early 1930s, the Reverso is another dress watch staple, but its origins are significantly more sporty: British soldiers playing polo while stationed in India were breaking their watch crystals. In an effort to solve the problem, several parties came together to make a watch with a reversible case that would hide the vulnerable crystal—hence “Reverso.” This version is a new mid-size model with a single dial that reveals a blank steel caseback, which is perfect for engraving. Powered by a hand-wound movement, the blue version is particularly fetching and will wear beautifully on either a man or woman’s wrist.

SPECS:
Diameter: 24.4mm
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822 hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $8,900

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier (Small)
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No self-respecting guide to dress watches is complete without the inclusion of a Cartier Tank, the famous horological staple designed in 1917 during the First World War to resemble an early Renault tank as seen from above. Introduced in 1919, it subsequently ballooned in popularity to the point that its rectangular case, thick brancards, guillochéd dial, Roman numeral indices, and blued steel hands became recognizable to even the most horologically disinclined. This small-size, hand-wound, classic Tank Louis Cartier wasn’t the very first Tank model, but its precious-metal construction and mechanical movement make it a true enduring classic.

SPECS:
Diameter: 22mm
Movement: Cartier Calibre 8971 MC hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $11,700

IWC Portugieser Automatic 42
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Another vintage-inspired design, the IWC Portugieser was born from a client request in the 1930s for an oversized wristwatch that was fulfilled using a pocket watch case and movement. The modern Automatic 42 in stainless steel takes heavy influence from these original pieces: With its thick lugs, thin bezel, silver-plated dial, railroad minute track, blue Arabic indices, and blued steel feuille handset, it has distinctive, classic looks that resemble those of a pocket watch turned 90 degrees. Speaking of which, the small-seconds indicator on this reference is present at 9 o’clock, which is balanced by an 8-day power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and a date window at 6 o’clock. Utilitarian and bold, it remains a dress watch staple.

SPECS:
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: IWC 52011 Calibre
Water Resistance: 50m
Price: $12,800

Dress Watches Under $50,000

While the Crown may be synonymous with hard-wearing tool watches, its early- and mid-20th century fare included many dressier models. The 1908 collection, which debuted in 2023, takes inspiration from this time period but adds contemporary touches. An automatic movement provides +2/-2 seconds per day of accuracy and a 66-hour power reserve, while a yellow gold case with a fluted and domed bezel blends beautifully with a black dial featuring a white railroad minute track, applied yellow gold indices, and a matching yellow gold handset. An objectively gorgeous object, the 1980 ref. 52508-0002 is the dress watch as only Rolex could imagine it.

SPECS:
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Rolex Calibre 7140 automatic
Water Resistance: 50m
Price: $23,000

Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119G
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The reference 6119G is a modern Calatrava, Patek Philippe’s classic collection of round dress watches introduced in 1932. Cased in a larger 39mm white gold housing with a beautiful Clous de Paris bezel, its charcoal-gray dial with vertical satin finishing, applied white gold hour markers, sub-seconds display at 6 o’clock, and outer railroad minute track give it a timeless look, while its caliber 30-255 PS—a hand-wound caliber that debuted in this reference and its sister in rose gold—provides 65 hours of power reserve. Beautifully finished, its considered design has already made it a modern classic.

SPECS:
Diameter: 39mm
Movement: Patek Philippe Caliber 30-255 PS hand-wound
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $33,110

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Complete Calendar
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A complete calendar, which displays the day, date, month, and often the moonphase, is sometimes dismissed by aficionados due to its need for manual adjustment at the end of each month. (Perpetual calendars, by contrast, require almost no manual adjustment.) However, many such calendars are exceptional examples of mid-20th century design that still feels entirely relevant today. Take the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar, which features a 41mm pink gold case with long lugs and subtle, plus built-in correctors for changing the dial’s various displays. The silver-toned opaline dial, meanwhile, is a picture of classic watchmaking perfection, with a mix of windows, applied indices, painted elements, and subtle pops of color that make it a pleasure to behold on one’s wrist—and easy to read, for that matter.

SPECS:
Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460 QCL/1 automatic
Water Resistance: 30m
Price: $45,300