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Watch releases arrive like avalanches, Nerds (the candy), or reindeer—coming at you all at once, in big clusters and packs. If April’s annual Watches & Wonders trade show sets the table for most of the year’s new releases, this week’s Geneva Watch Days is like going back for seconds: May I have some more new watches please, sir?
Geneva Watch Days was founded in 2020 after the dissolution of Baselworld, formerly one of the industry’s most prominent trade shows. GWD was founded by brands like Breitling, Bulgari, MB&F H. Moser & Cie, and Girard-Perregaux and has a distinctly more independent flavor than its close equivalents. As you’ll see, this means that the watches provide more spark and sizzle—two qualities this year’s W&W was accused of lacking. Geneva Watch Days opened today with a Nerds Cluster of new releases. Oren Hartov and I rounded up our favorites. —Cam Wolf
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
Roman jeweler Bulgari has long proved its horological bona fides, with the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection snagging more world records and awards than you can shake a stick at. The collection, which spans every conceivable complication, even has a minute repeater available in various guises. The newest version, however, has to be the wackiest: The ref. 103986—a 40mm watch in carbon measuring just 6.85mm thick—rings in the octave-splitting tritone interval, often called the “Devil’s interval” in classical music education due to its extreme dissonance. Looking like it was forged in the fires of Mount. Doom, the watch looks and sounds the part of something slightly sinister—and totally awesome. —Oren Hartov
H. Moser x Studio Underd0g Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Passion Fruit
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