A great suit is unlike anything else in your closet—timeless and elegant, certainly, but also difficult to get right. The process of choosing, buying and caring for fine tailoring is often fraught with tough decisions, confusing jargon and conflicting opinions. That’s why we’ve assembled an all-star roster of the world’s most knowledgeable menswear experts to definitively answer all of your sartorial questions. Welcome to GQ’s Ask a Tailor.
With the exception of the laws of physics, pretty much every other rule ever made—including the rules around traditional menswear—is somebody’s opinion. This makes such do’s and don’ts both subjective and, as history continues to prove, more than likely to sound ridiculous in a decade or two. That said, there are still rules to know and missteps to avoid, and understanding them (even if only to break them) can be the key to looking absolutely smoldering in a suit.
As ever, knowing your way around conventions like trouser length (they should touch the tops of your shoes), sock choice (crews in solid, muted colors) and whether or not to wear a tie (mostly up to you!) will help you avoid some of the most common faux-pas. For a more comprehensive rundown on the state of the suit in 2024, we tapped our roster of menswear experts for their best advice, from the philosophical to the highly specific.
Fit is (almost) everything
A beautiful suit that doesn’t fit properly is going to look terrible on you. On the other hand, if you have a cheap suit and a good tailor who can fit you well, it’s going to look great. —Bruce Boyer, elder statesman of American menswear, Ask a Tailor consigliere and jazz fan
Fit equals comfort
A little room in your suit is never a bad thing, it will be more comfortable to wear. You can’t look good if you’re not comfortable. —Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury
Fit is subjective
If everybody is wearing high-rise trousers and you’re wearing trousers with a six-inch rise, people will say your trousers don’t fit properly. But that’s not about fit, it’s about fashion. Instead, think more about the line of a garment and the silhouette, which should reflect the fashion of the moment as well as your individual preferences. —BB
Beware the shrunken suit
“If you can see the wallet, keys, cell phone or change bulging in your pockets, your pants are likely too tight. Likewise, your jacket should cover your seat. Shorter jackets don’t make you look more casual – they make you look like you have a jacket that doesn’t fit.” —Matthew Woodruff, creative director at J.Mueser
Start with a classic
“For me, that means a single-breasted, two-button or three-roll-two jacket, probably with side vents, and a not-too-slim-but-not-too-full pair of pants. With the help of a trusted tailor, that’s going to get you 90 per cent of the way there.” —Sid Mashburn, founder of Sid Mashburn
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