10 Things You Need to Know About Margiela

To call Martin Margiela one of the most important designers of all time would be an understatement.

Since starting his namesake label in 1988, he has defined luxury fashion through his world-renowed products, collaborations with high-profile artists, and mindblowing runway shows. Most impressively, especially in an era where every designer is so accessible, Margiela has done it all in while remaining largely anonymous.

In light of of the latest MM6 x Supreme release, here are 10 Things You Need to Know About Margiela.

Martin Margiela studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. The prestigious school also calls Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, Walter Van Beirendonck, Demna, and many more alumni.

Before starting his namesake label in 1988 alongside business partner Jenny Meirens, Margiela was a design assistant for Jean Paul Gaultier from 1985 to 1987. He even walked in JPG’s Fall/Winter 1986 show,”Russian Constructivist,” one of the rare times we got a glimpse of the elusive designer.

In 1997, Margiela took on the role of artistic director of womenswear at Hermes, a position he held until 2003. Margiela’s tenure was celebrated for its refined, modular silhouettes. While it was a stark contrast from the reconstructed and illusionary approach that defined his eponymous label, it aligned much better with the history of the French house. Margiela was doing “quiet luxury” before it was even a term.

Raf Simons credits the fellow Belgian designer as the reason he switched career paths from furniture design to clothing. Simons said that Margiela’s Spring/Summer 1990 show, which was held at a children’s playground in Paris, was the main inspiration: “Three girls came out. It was a split second – I knew I wanted to do fashion.”

MM6, the casual diffusion label of Margiela, was founded in 1997. Throughout the 2020s, the brand has released a range of impressive collaborations including outerwear with The North Face, footwear with Salomon, and watches with Timex. Its biggest projects have been the two Supreme collaborations in 2024 and 2026.

Margiela’s numbers label is more than just a signature symbol you see on Margiela’s garments. Introduced in 1998, the numbers circled actually vary depending on the item.

Of the 23 numbers present, 10 are used. “0” is the small-batch Artisanal collection that started in 2006. “1” indicates the ready-to-wear women’s collection. “3” is fragrances. “4” is the women’s Garderobe line. “6” is MM6. “8” is eyewear. “0” and “10” circled together connotes men’s pieces remade by hand. “11” is an accessory. “13” is objects and publications. Finally, “22” is men’s and women’s footwear.

What’s that jacket, Margiela? If you were asking that question while attending the Yeezus tour, it probably was. Margiela worked alongside Kanye West to create a 30-piece on-stage wardrobe for the monumental tour in 2013. The faux fur Futures and raggedy tank tops were cool, but nothing was as important as the collection of bejeweled face masks.

Ye’s love for Margiela runs deep. In 2016, he famously posted 99 images of archive Margiela to his personal Instagram page. The rapper’s Margiela collection must be insane.

Released in 2008, the bi-fold wallet with counterfeit $11 bills on the exterior is incredibly rare has become a grail among collectors. Listings for used wallets can still be found on sites like Grailed for $20,000. In 2024, Supreme referenced the design, but replaced the bills with crumpled Supreme receipts.

While Margiela didn’t invent the tabi, which is actually a traditional piece of Japanese footwear that dates back to the 15th century, he did make it iconic. His idea to reinterpret the design came after a trip to Japan in the ‘80s.

“My memory went back to the day we went to Tokyo for the first time, when we saw street workers in their flat cotton tabi shoes,” Margiela said in the Martin Margiela: In His Own Words documentary. “I thought, OK, why shouldn’t I do a soft tabi shoe but on a high heel? And then the idea was born.”

Since debuting the tabi ankle boot in 1989, the split-toe design has become a whole subsection of the Margiela footwear offering. Other styles include ballet flats, clogs, high heels, mules, and even Reebok Instapump Furys.

The Margiela Replica, colloquially known as the GATs by many fashion heads, debuted in 1999. The sneaker is a near 1:1 re-creation of the German Army Trainer designed by Adidas founder Adi Dassler and Puma founder Rudolf Dassler.

Since its debut, the Replica has earned the reputation as one of the first luxury sneakers that ends up in your closet when you start getting into fashion. Whether you prefer yours with colorful paint splatters, metallic leather panels, or a clean white/grey upper with a gum sole, it’s easy to see why so many people gravitate towards the silhouette. Not only is it timless, it’s easy to pull off.

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