Tailoring is indeed enjoying a moment, but its vibe is less Kendall Roy, arriviste Wall Street conquistador, and more Jeremy Strong, newfound Loro Piana obsessive. And rather than stressing lapel gorges or center vents, fellas are decking themselves out like suave ’70s rock gods, blustering ’80s tycoons, and louche ’90s heartthrobs—sometimes in the span of the same week.

For proof, take a quick gander at the new elegance’s foremost practitioners, who spent the majority of 2023 brainstorming novel ways to transform the suit—that lodestar of the reject modernity crowd!—into an utterly modern, idiosyncratic flex. At her kingmaking fall 2023 show, Grace Wales Bonner sent models down the halls of the Hôtel d’Évreux in tuxes and soccer jerseys, enlisting the tailors at Anderson & Sheppard to make it happen. At Fear of God’s Hollywood Bowl extravaganza, Jerry Lorenzo lopped the lapels off his sculptural double-breasted jackets, equipped his trousers with dangly drawstring waists, and topped the whole shebang with decadent, ankle-length furs. And at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello continued to push the agenda to dazzling new heights, accenting his boss-man blazers and pavement-skimming topcoats with sultry blouses and slinky, languorous trousers.

Yorgos Lanthimos at the Venice photocall for Poor Things in September.

Yorgos Lanthimos at the Venice photocall for Poor Things in September.Getty Images

Carey Mulligan at a London screening of Maestro in December.

Carey Mulligan at a London screening of Maestro in December.Getty Images

The new elegance was catnip for a certain type of low-key, cerebral dresser, too. It was the animating frisson behind Yorgos Lanthimos’s preternaturally relaxed press junket fits, Carey Mulligan’s emergence as a bona fide menswear god, and Kendrick Lamar’s humdinger of a Met Gala get-up—makeshift Chanel belt and all. You can see its influence in Jacob’s Elordi’s coquettish penchant for designer handbags, and David Beckham’s mastery of socks and sandals. It’s why you can’t fling a ballet flat without hitting a dude in a rumpled striped shirt, the reason old J.Crew feels so relevant, and why every influencer you kind of hate traded his sweatshirts and cargo pants for pleated slacks and neutral-tone knits.

saint laurent fall 2023 menswear

A model walks the runway at Saint Laurent’s fall 2023 menswear show.Vogue Runway

It is, in other words, the Azelastine our bleary eyes needed after so many years of viral sneakers and bizarro fashion stunts designed to trick them into forgetting what, y’know, actually looks good. It’s also all the excuse you need to tuck your tee into your jeans, throw a sweater over your shoulders, yank those trousers to nipple-grazing territory, and buy, thrift, or dust off a suit. So by golly, don’t waste any more time looking for elegance. It’s impossible to miss right now—all you have to do is seize it.

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